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Croagh Patrick,
also known as ‘The Reek’ and originally (before Patrick’s
time) known as Cruchan Aigli or Eagle Mountain, has been a place
of pilgrimage for 1500 years. The mountain is renowned for its
Pilgrimages dating back to the time of St Patrick’s fast on the
mountain for 40 days and 40 nights in 441. Since this time the
custom has been handed down faithfully from generation to
generation to the present day. On the last Sunday of July every
year people come in their thousands to climb its slopes, some to
look, most to pray and a lot still climb it bare foot. Up until
1974 the pilgrims climbed right through the night to watch the
morning sunrise at the summit. This was a wondrous sight to
behold of moving lights over an ascending distance of almost 3
miles.
Croagh Patrick is
about five miles outside the town of Westport and soars
majestically over the town.
It is 2510 feet above sea level and more often than not its
summit is hidden in the clouds. Some of the clearest days on
Croagh Patrick can be on a frosty winters day.
It is of Croagh Patrick that
William Makepeace
Thackeray
wrote, when he described his wearisome journey from Leenane to
Westport by sidecar. ‘ And presently, from an eminence, I
caught sight not only of a fine view, but of the most beautiful
view I ever saw in the world, I think; and to enjoy the splendor
of which I would travel a hundred miles in that car with that
very horse and driver. The sun was just about to set and the
country round about and to the east was almost in twilight.
Trees, cornfields, cottages, made the scene indescribably
cheerful; noble woods stretch towards the sea, and abutting on
them, between two highlands, lay a smoking town. The mountains
were tumbled about in a thousand fantastic ways, but the bay,
and the Reek, which sweeps down to the sea, and a hundred
islands in it, was dressed up in gold and purple, and crimson
with the whole cloudy west in flame. Wonderful, wonderful! The
islands in the bay looked like so many dolphins and whales
basking there. It forms an event in one’s life to have seen that
place, so beautiful is it and so unlike all other beauties that
I know of. Were such beauties lying upon English shores it would
be a world’s wonder’.
Cruachan Aigli:
Cruach translates from the Irish
language to conical mountain or stacked up reek. Aigli
translates to Eagle. In the Annals of Ulster reference is made
to Croagh Patrick as Cruchan Aigle with the year 1113 being
referred to. The next reference found is in the Annals of
Connaught where Croagh Patrick is referred to as Cruaich Patric.
The Browne’s Map of Mayo dated 1585 shows the area as Croagh
Patrick , in the Barony of Murrisk and the whole area, including
the mountain, being referred to as ‘Owles O Maile’ because the O
Malley clan were the Chieftains of the area with their seat in
Belclare at the mouth of Owenwee River, two miles from Westport
on the road to Croagh Patrick. Westport does not appear on this
map as the town had not been built at this stage.
THE PILGRIMAGE
TRADITION TO THE REEK
How
Old is the Tradition:
Long before the arrival of Christianity to Ireland we know
that the summit of Croagh Patrick was occupied by a hill fort,
complete with stone ramparts and dwellings. Excavations have
been carried out on the summit and among the earliest dateable
finds are beads, which date to the 3rd century B.C. On the
outskirts of the rampart on the mountain slopes, the outline of
at least thirty hut sites have been detected. Another recent
survey is uncovering a wide range of newly discovered monuments
throughout the mountain and around it. These include ancient
cooking sites, megalithic tombs, standing stones, burial mounds,
ring forts, monastic sites and children’s burial grounds.
It is said that Patrick established a rude chapel on the summit
of Croagh Patrick called Teampall Phadraig. Radio Carbon date
proof of the existence of this Chapel was found on the summit in
1994. There is evidence of this chapel’s existence recorded in
824 when the Archbishop of Armagh had an argument with the
Archbishop of Tuam as Armagh was claiming church dues from
Teampall Phadraig. This shows that the church on the summit was
in use. The foundations of this church built circa the 432 are
still on the summit of ‘The Reek’.
In 1216 Felix O Rourke the Archbishop of Tuam appealed to Rome
against the tax claim from Armagh.
On Oct 6th 1882 two priests, Fr John Stephens and Fr Michael
Clarke accompanied by two architects and a lot of workmen left
Westport with the necessary material for erecting a temporary
chapel on the summit.
After the pilgrimage of 1904 Fr Michael McDonnell set about
building a new chapel on the summit with William H Byrne as
architect and Mr. Walter Heneghan, Louisburgh as Contractor. All
the work materials were bought locally and as much work as
possible was carried out at the bottom of the Reek. Everything
had to be drawn up the mountain by donkey.
Donkeys used for transporting goods on Pilgrimage day.
One Charles O Malley, a laborer, and a native of Westport
town, recalled carrying six iron girders weighing three
hundredweight on his back up Casan Phadraig, which is the last
quarter of mile to the summit, and consists of a sheer climb on
moving stones. Twelve local men were employed for six months for
the construction of the church. The total cost of the building
was Ł100 which was mainly collected from emigrants and pilgrims.
Church on Reek circa 1905
It is a pilgrimage that waned and was revived many times down
through the centuries but, without interruption, Pilgrimage has
been carried out on this mountain for over 1500 years from the
very early Christian times in Ireland to this present day. Today
hundreds of thousands of visitors come to Croagh Patrick each
year from all parts of the world.
Archbishop Neary celebrating Mass on Reek Sunday 1999.
The traditional pilgrimage day is the last Sunday in July
coinciding with the ancient times Festival of Lughnasa, which
was the start of the harvest festival in honor of the god Lugh.
Lugh was the ancient God of the Tuatha De Danann, the divine
Irish Race. The name Lugh is contained in the Irish name for
August (Lughnasa). The Festival of Lughnasa was celebrated all
around Ireland and was vital for the success of the harvest.
This tradition was absorbed into Christian beliefs and there are
still a lot of old sayings in existence around Ireland bearing
testament to the ancient traditions. One very common one in the
West of Ireland is that the potatoes are not to be harvested
until after ‘Reek Sunday’.
Another traditional Pilgrimage day is the Last Friday of July
which is known locally as ‘Garland Friday.’
This is usually a local pilgrimage day and there is another
Pilgrimage on the 15th August (The Feast of the Assumption of
Our Lady into Heaven.) On these 3 days services are available on
the summit of the Mountain. These three days besides, there is
hardly a day of the year anymore when there is not somebody
climbing Croagh Patrick for their own reasons, be they nature
lovers, hill climbers, pilgrims, historians or just some curious
tourist.
THE ANCIENT
PILGRIMAGE ROUTE
TOCHAR PHADRAIG:
Ballintubber Abbey
(St Patricks
Causeway) is the very ancient route leading from Leacht Benain
on Croagh Patrick to Ballintubber Abbey. This route is said to
predate St. Patrick’s visit to the Reek. It probably led from
Cruachan near Boyle in Co Roscommon, which was the ancient seat
of the Kings of Connaught. All along this causeway, which runs
in a straight line from east to west, many churches, abbeys and
settlements were established, most of which are now in ruins. It
is believed it was this route that St Patrick used when visiting
the Reek . It stretches from Ballintubber Abbey through Triangle
& Aghagower (which is 8km east of Croagh Patrick and is
traditionally the village where Patrick stayed before ascending
the mountain.
(Church at Aughagower)
He is believed to
have established a church in Aghagower and here you will find a
Holy Well traditionally used by St Patrick to baptize his
converts to Christianity).
The route continues from Aghagower to Bohea and on to Croagh
Patrick.
Stone in Bohea with inset showing ancient Celtic circles.
Bohea is a townland 6
km to the east of Croagh Patrick where there is a remarkable
rock outcrop which is decorated with ancient art and is known
locally as the Bohea Stone. It was discovered in recent years
that on two days of the year, the 18th April and 24th August the
setting sun directly hits the top of Croagh Patrick and instead
of setting behind it as it usually does, it slides down along
its northern slope in a rolling movement.
Not a station of the Reek but a great meeting place before
the start. The statue is of St Patrick with a shamrock in his
hand and was erected near the base of the mountain in 1928 by Fr
Patterson.
THE STATIONS OF
THE REEK.
It is not exactly
clear from records how far back the Stations of the Reek date
but it is traditionally believed that it was soon after Saint
Patrick’s visit to the mountain.
The Pilgrimage
FIRST STATION: Leacht Benain (named after St
Patrick’s disciple, Saint Benignus and later his successor in
the See of Armagh. It is at the base of the cone section of the
climb, consisting of a small, circular cairn of stones. The
pilgrim walks around it seven times and says Seven Our Fathers,
Seven Hail Mary’s and one Creed.
SECOND STATION: The Summit On reaching the summit,
the pilgrim starts the second station of the Reek by kneeling
and saying Seven Our Fathers, Seven Hail Mary’s and one Creed.
He proceeds then to pray for the Pope’s intentions near the
Chapel and then walks fifteen times round the chapel
in a clockwise direction saying Fifteen Our Fathers, Fifteen
Hail Mary’s and one Creed. He concludes the Second Station by
walking Seven times around the monument traditionally known as
Leaba Phadraig (Patrick’s Bed, where the Saint is supposed to
have taken his nights rest during his 40 day fast on the
Summit).
St Patrick's Bed
As he walks the pilgrim
recites Seven Our Fathers, Seven Hail Mary’s and one Creed.
THIRD STATION: Roilig Mhuire (Virgin’s Cemetery)
is a little distance down the western side of the mountain. Here
there are three cairns of stones, and the pilgrim walks seven
times around each cairn, saying Seven Our Fathers, Seven Hail
Mary’s and one Creed and finally goes round the whole enclosure
seven times praying. Rolig Mhuire was probably a pre Christian
grave site dedicated to a pagan goddess and was at one time
resorted to by women seeking to have children or looking for a
blessing on their children.
Small hermitage site at Caher Island)
CAHER ISLAND
Some 8km off the Mayo coast and a little south of Clare
Island is the uninhabited island of Caher, a name believed by
the natives of Inishturk, a neighboring inhabited island, to
mean" City of the Saints”. People would come here traditionally
on pilgrimage immediately after Reek Sunday and many believed
that the pilgrimage to The Reek was not over without a visit to
Caher Island. The approach to the island is treacherous even on
a clam day for the most experienced of seafarers. There is a the
site of a small hermitage here and of a tiny church.
MURRISK
Murrisk is a
beautiful village nestling at the foot of Croagh Patrick on the
shores of Clew Bay. The name Murrisk originated from either
“Muir-Riasc” meaning a marsh by the sea or “Muir Iasc” meaning
sea monster, which would have been one of the pagan Gods
worshiped in Heathen, times. Murrisk has long been the starting
point of the Croagh Patrick Pilgrimage. In Tirecahns life of
Patrick in the book of Armagh it is said that St Patrick’s
Charioteer died at Muiresc Aigli, that is the plain between the
sea and Cruchan Aigli and it is indeed a holy place since St
Patrick buried him there and vowed to return for him on the Day
of Judgment.
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Mass celebrated in the ruins of Murrisk Abbey August 1999
The ruins of an
Augustinian Abbey known as Murrisk Abbey stand in the shadow of
Croagh Patrick. The Abbey was founded in 1457 when a letter from
Pope Callistus 111 gave permission to an Augustinian ,Hugh O
Malley of Banada Friary, County Sligo, to establish a Church and
Priory at Murrisk on land donated by Thady O Malley who was
described as a chieftain of that area. The Friary was built on
the site of the original church founded there by St Patrick.
The Cemetary at Murrisk Abbey.
Very little is known
about the Abbey between 1570 to the early 1800 except that the
friars suffered persecution and there is evidence that despite
this they stayed in the area and administered to the people of
Murrisk. The Abbey is now in ruins and under the supervision of
the Board of Works. A striking feature is the fine five-light
window on the east wall of the church and the embattled parapet,
which crowns the south wall. Mass is celebrated each year in the
ruins of the Abbey on the last Sunday in August to coincide with
Pattern Day in Murrisk Village.
Campbells pub at the foot of "The Reek" on Pattern Day 1999.
THE FAMINE SHIP.
The Famine ship unveiled by President of Ireland Mary
Robinson.
The National Famine
Commemorative Committee advertised in all the National Irish
newspapers to find a place suitable to place a National Famine
Monument. After much deliberation and a lot of hard work on the
part of the people of Murrisk, Murrisk was picked for the
placing of the Monument. ON the 20 July 1997, Mary Robinson, the
president of Ireland, unveiled the monument as her second last
duty before her term of office finished. Her last duty was to
unveil another Famine Commemorative monument in Boston, U.S.A.
The Monument at Murrisk is a John Behan sculpture depicting a
“Coffin Ship” with skeleton bodies and commemorates the
anniversary of the National Famine 150 years ago, when the
population declined from eight million to four million.
At the moment there are plans in the making for a National
Millennium Peace Park to be developed in the area around the
Famine Ship at Murrisk.
MINING ON CROAGH PATRICK.
A mineral exploration
company, Burmin, has discovered gold bearing veins on Craogh
Batrick itself during the late 1980’s . The Owenwee River, (in
Irish Abhainn Bhui or yellow river) is sourced in the south-west
shoulder of Croagh Patrick. However in 1990 the Irish
Government, through the Minister for Energy decided not to renew
the exploration licenses for Croagh Patrick. The local Wesport
Newspaper the Mayo News carried this heading and report on May
16, 1990
“The battle for Croagh Patrick is won.”
‘Reaction to the decision of the Minister for Energy, Mr Robert
Molloy to refuse to renew Burmin’s exploration licence for
Croagh Patrick has been overwhelmingly favorable. The Minister,
who took part in the national pilgrimage to the mountain last
year, announced his decision on Saturday at the annual
conference of the Progressive Democrats in Galway.
He said he had decided to use his powers under the 1940 Mineral
Development Act “because of the unique importance of the pilgrim
site, which is part of our national culture and religious
heritage. Archbishop Joseph Cassiday welcomed his decision and
said “I fully appreciate the disappointment of the mining
company but I warmly welcome the Minister’s announcement. I
think he has made the right decision in all the circumstances.
Croagh Patrick rears it head so majestically in our national,
cultural and spiritual experience that it would be a shame to
mine it”
MAYO NEWS – May 16th 1990.
Croagh Patrick sunset taken from Bohea, Westport.
My Conclusion:
Whatever your creed, race, beliefs or feelings there is
something majestic, mystical, magical to behold in “The Reek”.
From any road entering Westport , St Patrick's holy Mountain in
all its varied moods and glory stands guard over his people as
it sweeps down to the shores of Clew Bay.
The surrounding hills, glens and mountains seem to talk to each
other. A stone church, weathered by storms and haunted by
Irelands prayers, waits at the summit. It is indeed a place that
can be called ‘God’s own Country’ or ‘a natural wonder of the
world’, whichever your beliefs are. Either way it is worth a
visit and as the old saying goes ‘ He who came to mock remained
to pray'!
St Patricks Day
St Patrick The Man
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